If you are luck enough to have access to a car lift you can drop the engine onto a bench placed under the car. If not you have to ensure the car is lifted high enough for it to slide out underneath on a jack or dolly. You will need car ramps.
Here is the the way the porsche factory recommended.
Disconnect the leads from the battery.
Battery disconnected.
Turn the fuel cock to off, lever facing right.(zu)
ZU is off!!
Open rear hood and disconnect air heater control linkeage.
Air control linkeage is the clamp in the centre of the photo.
Remove dipstick.
Remove the 4 pan head screws holding the rear duct plate. There is one either side of the pulley (right side already removed) and one either side a few inches forward of the carb deicer tubes.
Pan head screw to the left of pulley- right side removed.
Pan head screw holding rear duct plate
Remove the 2 pan head scews that hold the carb preheaters in place.
Pan head screws holding carb heater tube. One on right is hidden behind tube.
but is seen in photo below.
Remove pre heaters tubes.
Undo the 2 flat head screws that hold the carb pre heater pipes and cross connector in place and remove.
Carb pre heaters and tubes and cross linkage removed.
Remove the rear duct plate.
Rear duct plate removed.
Remove the black and green wire from the oil thermometer pick up. This is on the sump on my engine.
Black / Green wire to oil temperature pick up.
Remove the black lead from the coil terminal 15. Replace the nut and washer on the coil.
Disconnect the green lead from the oil pressure switch. Replace the screw into the oil pressure switch.
Oil pressure switch wire is green. The black curly wire goes to coil terminal 15 and should be disconnected.
Disconnect the 3 leads on the generator. D- yellow lead held by a flat head screw, D+ red and DF black. Tuck the wires out of harms way.
Disconnect the accellerator linkeage ball joint. Use a 9 or 10 open ended spanner to lever it off. It is found low down behind the fan cover on the left side of the engine.
Accelerator linkage ball joint.
Remove the pulley nut and fan belt. ( The nut tends to catch as you drop the engine)
Pulley nut removed.
Now get under the car.
Undo the 2 heater control cable clamping nuts and disconnect the cables at the heater flap pivots. Carefully remove the clamps and put back on to the cables for safe keeping. Repeat for the other heater box on the other side. Tuck the cables out of the way.
Heater control cables and clamps. Undo nuts and carefully remove clamp. I like to clamp it back onto the control wire after it is disconnected. stops it getting lost!!
Remove the flexible heater tubes from both sides.
flexible heater tube is seen behind the fuel filter in this photo.
Undo the tachometer nut and remove the tach and cable. Tuck out of harms way. If you have a heater deflector plate it can be difficult to access but a 20mm open spanner will work to release the nut.
The silver braided wire protects the tacho cable - the nut on the end needs undoing.
Undo the fuel line at an appropriate junction.
I undo the fuel line on the engine side of the filter.
Loosen the two lower engine mounting nuts. Use a 17mm socket with a long extension bar. Remove the nuts.
The engine nuts are NOT the large ones on the hoop but the two seen just above in the background of the picture.
Place a jack or dolly under the engine so it is just taking weight.
Undo the two upper engine mount nuts.
They are well hidden in front of the engine fan. You may well need someone to stop the bolts turning. Remove the nuts.
Two upper engine mount nuts shown middle and right in the above photo.
Pull the engine backward using exhaust pipes. Make sure it is clear of the clutch.
Engine has been wiggled forward and a gap appears between the bell housing and the engine.Make sure you are right off the gearbox spline before dropping engine.
Carefully lower the engine on the jack making sure it does not catch on anything.
Thats it, the engine is out.
